Sunday, February 24, 2013

Man, if this trend plays itself out, I'm gonna miss my knishes, blintzes, latkes, matzo soup and pastrami on rye

Two recent pieces - one by Austin Hill at Townhall, and one by Neo-neocon at her blog - that are responses to a recent LA Times piece on the demise of the Jewish deli.  There used to be thousands in New York, and now that's down to a couple of hundred.

Neo-neocon's main point is that delis have had an authenticity problem for some time.  She says that the dough for their bagels and rye bread had undergone a decrease in chewiness, for example.

Austin Hill raises some interesting points.  He doesn't mention Joseph Schumpeter's concept of creative destruction, but he's clearly addressing it:

Consider, for example, the notion of “too much competition.” What exactly does this mean?
Obviously the more competitive a marketplace is, the more difficult it is for any particular business entity to survive and thrive. But how do we know when the level of competition is appropriate, and when it is “too much?”
Americans are accustomed to fierce competition in other arenas – in sports, especially, and even in the arts and entertainment. Similarly, most of us would never say “my favorite team didn’t make it to the Super Bowl this year because there was too much competition in the NFL.”
But when it comes to local small businesses, we often succumb to this vague, un-defined notion that there is this magical amount of competition that’s “just right,” and if our favorite business can’t compete, then therefore there is “too much” competition.

And he points out that delis, as small businesses, are facing the ravages of Obamanomics typical of that type of organization:

 And guess what the LA Times article about the delis completely ignored? The impact of government policy on small businesses. Nowhere did it reference the expansive and onerous mandates placed upon business via Obamacare, the impact on business owners of the President’s payroll tax hike, or his income tax increases on “rich people.” 
No, the LA Times apparently wasn’t interested in how the President’s income tax hikes have taken money away from what the I.R.S. designates as “Subchapter S Corporations” (sometimes abbreviated as “S-corps”), and how this has effectively taken money directly out of small corporations, many of which operate small businesses. Likewise, the article made no reference to the fact California voters approved an increase in state income tax rates for “rich people” (thus leading to even less revenue in Subchapter-S Corporations) on their ballot last November, nor did it acknowledge that California has for years been on a trajectory of higher and higher unemployment insurance and workers’ compensation mandates for businesses.

Hitting the delis is always a must on any trip I take to New York, so this is a sad development.  Not only will I miss that particular kind of chow, but the continuing fading of the particularities of our culture as well. As we all assimilate by virtue of the homogenization of our food, music and customs, it will be left to the "diversity"-hustlers to keep the rich and distinct ways of living one found in the various types of neighborhoods in America -  when it was America -  alive.  Alas, that will be done in the manner of museum-curating, trotting out the delectables from the country's various cultural tributaries at "ethnic festivals" and in the form of offerings found in the frozen-food section of the supermarket, and there no doubt prepared with the kind of nodding to health persnickety-ness and mix-and-match whimsy typical of a culture that no longer has a grasp of its own heritage.
I wonder how Shapiro's in Indianapolis and Katzinger's in Columbus, Ohio are doing.  My two fave midwestern oases for this type of fare.

5 comments:

  1. So this is the freedom haters' fault too? Did they down the neighborhood drug store and the mom and pop appliance store(felt acutely by yours truly who was the son and grandson of owners)? How come David Sax published a book in the last quarter of 2009 entitled "Save the Deli?" More blame for this and a lot of the like can be placed upon the MBAs than the MPAs.

    Read more at http://www.savethedeli.com/about/

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  2. What eventually happened is people didn’t eat deli food on a regular basis,” says Mr. Sax, “It went from something you ate daily to something you ate once a month to something you ate a couple of times a year. Jewish children today probably grow up eating more sushi than deli.

    Also working against many delis: economics. Mr. Sax discovered in his research that deli foods are not moneymakers, and most delis must settle for very small profit margins. Climbing rents — especially in New York City, where places like the Lower East Side, once the center of deli culture, is now home to million-dollar condos and organic markets — have eroded further already thin margins, forcing many a deli owner out of business.

    “Pastrami and corned beef are actually some of the least profitable foods,” says Mr. Sax. “Whereas a place selling chicken wings can sell a whole basket for $12, when it costs them about $4 to make, as well as sell a whole lot of beer. No one goes to a deli to drink.”


    Read more: http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2009/oct/21/delis-disappear-in-many-cities/#ixzz2Lug0VQpk
    Follow us: @washtimes on Twitter

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  3. There are delis, chain and sole proprieterships, all over town. Actually, Subway, Firehouse, and on and on, are deli knock-offs. There are some good chains like Toojays & Jason's down here in FL. Agree with you wholeheartedly, my man, deli food is to die for. Wonder why I don't eat at them more often? More than a few times a year though. And Shapiros is admittedly expensive, but soooooo good...

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  4. THis post is saying that lots of factors contribute to this situation. Some have an ideological charge, such as the rise in health zealotry. It would also be interesting to know more about just why those rents in NYC have gone up. But the principle of creative destruction plays a part as well, and that's just the cyclical nature of free-market economics, which is efficient, but not what you'd call sentimental.

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  5. When it comes to bagels you really have to come to Montreal.


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